Tomato ‘Red Pear’ is a very attractive vine tomato. These red pearshaped cluster tomatoes are delicious in a salad or simply eaten in the hand. They can also be used to make sauces or for preserving.
1 package (2 seed packets)
‘Red Pear' (0.25 g) and ‘Yellow Pearshaped’ (0.5 g).
|Guarantee:||1 year growth and flowering guarantee|
|Harvesting:||July - October|
|Latin name:||Solanum lycopersicum 'Red Pear'+ 'Yellow Pearshaped'|
|Leafs all year:||No|
Tomato seeds require no prior treatment although steeping them in lukewarm water for 12 hours encourages germination.
How to Sow
Tomato plants love heat and can be sown indoors in a mini greenhouse (or in a simple seedling tray) or in the greenhouse from the beginning of March. Combining the use of turf pots filled with good potting compost and a mini greenhouse is the easiest way. Perfect if you can also provide some soil warming - the results are even better. Sow 1 seed per pot, pushed in to a 0.5 cm depth with the end of a pencil and then stand on a sunny window-sill. Depending on temperature they should germinate within 7-10 days, after which you can reduce humidity in the mini greenhouse by opening the vents (or pricking through the plastic film held up by bamboo skewers covering the tray).
When the seedlings are 10 cm high, they need to become acclimatised by removing the covering for one hour longer every day. After about 5 days they should be used to normal humidity and they can be potted up.
Your tomato plants can go outdoors when all chance of frost is passed and night temperatures are above 12 degrees centigrade. Do harden them off first - to do this stand them in the shade outdoors for one hour longer every day for one week. They will then be ready to pot up - 3 to a (large) planter. Stand the pots in full sun.
If planting in the garden, choose a sunny, sheltered spot for your tomato row(s) - plant them 70 cm apart with a cane for support and tie the plant in. Remove all side shoots. Tie in and remove side shoots once every week unless your plants are bush forming plants - in that case only tie in to their supports. This is because tomatoes grown outdoors need all the energy for the main stem and to form buds.
Tomatoes generally pollinate themselves - (bumble) bees will help - but you can also help them along by giving the plants a little shake being careful not to damage the plant. Setting the fruit is usually not a problem.
When the lower tomato bunches are pollinated and start growing into fruit, remove the lower leaves to encourage growth. Regular fertilising with Bakker's Tomato Feed will be appreciated.
Tomatoes in the greenhouse grow somewhat taller so will require even more support. A long cane is good but twine hung from the roof to the roots is also helpful.
Use both hands to pick your tomatoes to avoid damaging the plant. Just carefully cut the fruit from the plant with a sharp knife or scissors. Either individually or in a bunch. If you leave the tomatoes hanging in a warm summer, they will turn red (or their appropriate colour). You should get 5-8 bunches per plant outdoors. Greenhouse tomatoes generally produce 2-3 times more fruits.
Picked tomatoes will ripen on a sunny windowsill too. This gives the plant the chance to fruit even more and give you a bigger harvest. At the end of the season, pick all the remaining green tomatoes to ripen them off indoors - or perhaps to pickle them.
Tomatoes do grow best in the greenhouse but they will do fine outdoors too if you choose the warmest and most sheltered spot for them.
Spanish sailors brought tomatoes to Europe from South America and they have since conquered the whole world. Tomatoes are actually creeping plants that require support to stand. Compact varieties do well in pots but those for in the greenhouse can easily grow to 2 metres high! (less tall outdoors). Canes of 1.5 metres is usually enough outdoors. Using twine hanging from the roof of the greenhouse works great as support too - the plant can be tied in to the twine.